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Did he want me here, or was I intruding on a private war that I would never understand? Who gathered these objects? Who curates the dead? Later, I was told that the Cheezar museum had been put together to educate the younger generation about the war. On display were everyday items belonging to martyrs who were the same age as the young people expected to visit the museum although few did.

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Each set of prayer beads belonged to someone: each is labelled with a name, a date and the place where they were found. The labels are the same stickers used to mark prices in grocery stores. Most cases were dedicated to a specific martyr, containing his belt, bullets he may have fired, or were fired at him, maybe even the shrapnel or bullet that killed him, his government-issue toothbrush, his ID, a school report, a brush and comb.

A red and yellow striped shirt, good as new, next to a picture of a young man wearing it; a shot of a college wrestling team, another of a wrestling match; a watch, unworn, given to him in death by a family member like a young groom on his wedding night ; snapshots taken by him or his friends; letters home and sent to him at the front; his prayer rug.

A picture of his fourth-grade classmates sitting in the playground squinting into the bright sun and smiling widely for the photographer. How many of the boys in the picture died in the war? Which one did the photo belong to? For these boys it marked the moment of death: or in the rhetoric of martyr culture, the moment of moving to a new life. Mourners would be asked to give not condolences but congratulations. A celebration of death becomes a celebration of life.

One case was adorned with the mirror and candles that are placed on both new year and wedding sufrehs. So many questions, and no one to ask. I heard the muffled sound of whispers and the scuff of shoes.

Journal of the Dead

Two young men appeared, one carrying a briefcase. Both had little tufts of hair on their upper lips. Either could have slipped out of one of the ID pictures in the cases. We whispered hello and I waited until they had made their way round to where I was standing.


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They took their time, bending slightly over the cases, reading every name, every testament. His friend politely shuffled away.


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They have documentary films of the actual war, exercises, battles — you really get it. When you see that up close you understand this place a bit better. If they had gone about it the right way, instead of the parks being full of young people, this place would be packed. The propaganda turned most young people off. It appeared red because of a total lunar eclipse, which is sure to give her footage an eerie edge.

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I told this month how she will release her 14th studio album in the coming months, followed by a global tour which will kick off at the end of the year. Nina, here at the Palm Springs home of legendary crooner Bing Crosby, where she filmed the video for recent single Colder, was dropped from Island Records in but has come back better than ever. RITA Ora looks stunning in this new Instagram snap — and the singer for once came clean about her reasons for posting the sexy image. She was named this week in a crackdown on underhand advertising via social media — and was warned she risked breaking the law if she failed to change her online habits.

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I never took any medicine. I did a course and it changed my life. The US rockers uploaded Harmony Hall and to streaming sites yesterday, thrilling fans who have been waiting more than Five Years for new music. The tunes will feature on their fourth studio album, Father Of The Bride, due in the spring.

He was warned he would be removed from the Celebrity Big Brother house if he was to repeat the action. Roxanne, visibly upset, went back to the Diary Room later that evening to discuss sleeping arrangements. Celebrity Big Brother continues tonight on Channel 5 at 9pm.

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